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Completed: Colette Hawthorn

Wednesday, August 13, 2014


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I'm finally getting some of my summer sewing list done. Funny huh? It's almost the end of August yo. Where the hell did summer go? I wanna know.  Not that I'm sad about it or anything.  It's been unusually cool here and I'm loving it.  Making me long for cozy sweaters, falling leaves and smore's from a bonfire...not from my gas stove....

Hey a girl gets desperate!
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I'm sure this is like the one millionth chambray Hawthorn you've seen.  I don't know about you but I do believe chambray is like the perfect fabric for this pattern.  I just so happened to find this chambray in the red tag clearance section of my Joann Fabric.  Every once in a while the fabric gods of Joann's will awaken from their slumber and bless me with something that's not crap.  I've tried to swear off buying fabric there because I've been burned so many times but what's a girl to do with it's their only option?  This chambray is lovely and it's feels even lovelier on.  I feel like I should be wandering slowly through fields of joy.  It's perfect (just like Lenny).

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The Makings of Joy:
Pattern: Colette Hawthorn available here in printed booklet or pdf. I bought the booklet.
Fabric:  2 yds of chambray - Joann Fabric. I believe it was between $10-$12 total.
Notions: 13- 1/2in buttons-stashed, self made bias tape for facings
Needle:  Microtex sharp needle

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Sizing and Fitting:
I made a muslin of the bodice only, size 0.  It was tight in the waist and the back was rather wide looking.  After getting help from some lovelies on Instagram I retraced my bodice grading the side seams from the bust down to a size 2.  I also did a narrow back adjustment followed from my Fit For Real People book and did a forward shoulder adjustment following Three Dresses tute.  I don't know if it's the way I'm standing or what but after looking at these pictures it looks like I could pinch a few out of the bodice length.

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Ha! Totally forgot I had band-aids on my feet.  Those wedges were killer.  I lasted about an hour in them at work then I switched to my tennis shoes.

Construction:
This is one of the easier patterns I've assembled from Colette.  A few things I did different from the pattern instructions: I didn't topstitch around the collar or down the center front .  I understitched instead. I didn't want any visible stitches.  I finished my hem before installing the buttons. I knew I was going to shorten it considerably and probably not need all 13 buttons.  Correct, I only used 12.  I had to adjust the placement of my buttons as well because I didn't want a button right of the waist seam because I'd most likely be wearing a belt. 

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I made bias tape to finish the facings and armholes.  Don't tell anyone but they don't match. Sometimes I don't think and get too far ahead of myself. I used some leftover green polka dot cotton for the facings on the bodice.  When I got to assembling the skirt I realized I had more facings to finish and no more green polka dot.  I finished the skirt with plain old white and the armholes are made with the chambray.  Next time I'll apply bias to the facings in one fell swoop after the skirt is attached.  Well either that or serge it and call it a day.

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My least favorite thing about circle skirts is the hem.  Oh what a pain in the arse I find it to be.  I can never get the fullness eased out when hand sewing the hem and it always looks like poo.   I found a 2 part tutorial on You Tube from Gertie on how to do a narrow hem on a full or circle skirt.  This is the way to go!
    
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Will I make this again? Definitely!

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In case you missed my last post I'm going to be doing a mini series on sewing room organization. I've kicked it off with 3 different giveaways so make sure you check out the intro post to enter to win one of your choosing.


OH Vito! <3 <3
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